We tested for you: Borgo Dei Conti Resort Relais & Châteaux

In the gentle warmth of the summer solstice, one finds themselves dreaming of their next unforgettable getaway. Since Easter, the masterpiece that is Borgo dei Conti has reopened its doors, as if to herald and celebrate the arrival of the new season. A vintage that exudes the essence of Italy, blending medieval history, remarkable art, and rolling nature. It’s the perfect time to escape — just for a few days — to create memories and lose all sense of time. Amber, our Marketing Manager and Wellness Travel Designer, delightfully immerses herself once again in the discovery of this idyllic and bucolic gem. An immersive experience where authentic charm, historical grandeur, and a revitalizing take on well-being come together beautifully.

Borgo Dei Conti: the grandeur of a living masterpiece

I had been eagerly anticipating our getaway to Borgo dei Conti — a characterful hotel that blends romance, art, and nature in Umbria, the green heart of Italy. Even on paper, the stay promised to be enchanting. Borgo dei Conti stands apart from the other gems in our collection. As a member of The Hospitality Experience, it embodies the very essence of hospitality within the slow luxury movement. The meticulous and delicate restoration, carried out by the architectural firm Spagnulo & Partners, pays tribute to the rich history in which Borgo dei Conti is deeply rooted.

This cultural and architectural heritage gem, nestled in the lush countryside of Umbria, combines refined rusticity with timeless charm. Borgo dei Conti seems to transcend time — its historical roots invite contemplation and reflection. The estate was built on the ruins of a 13th-century fortress and consists of two main buildings: the Villa and the Colonica, set within a vast, tree-filled park. A timeless treasure, Borgo appears to have been shaped by the region’s heritage, of which it is the natural heir.

Along the roads leading not to Rome, but to the Nestore Valley, you’ll feel as though a painting is coming to life before your eyes — a living canvas of idyllic landscapes, historic remnants, picturesque hamlets, and radiant light. Borgo dei Conti’s signature expression, “A Tale of Umbria,” takes on its full meaning here. Just a short distance from Perugia and Assisi, Borgo dei Conti offers a true immersion into the cultural richness of the region, framed by the serene waters of Lake Trasimeno.

The level of service — demanding, warm, and inherently bespoke — is infused with the natural hospitality of the team and the master of the house, Antonello, making it a treasure of authenticity. Borgo dei Conti achieves the rare feat of bridging centuries, proudly rooted in cultural heritage while weaving in countless references and nods to the past. Never outdated, it is touched by a contemporary spirit, resonating deeply with modern aesthetes, epicureans, and travelers in search of meaning and excellence. Borgo dei Conti invites you on a journey through time, where Renaissance influences, artisanal craftsmanship, and Umbrian traditions come together in harmony.

Wandering through the Ages and Umbrian countryside

After landing at Rome Fiumicino Airport and picking up our Fiat 500, we set off on our little retro-style road trip toward Umbria. We slowly eased into the flow of Italian traffic, doing our best to adapt to the local driving style. The goal was to reach Borgo before nightfall.

As soon as we left the main roads behind, the landscape began to reveal its beauty — bathed in that golden light so characteristic of the region. While keeping one eye on the GPS, my thoughts drifted back to my first encounter with Antonello Buono, the master of the house at Borgo dei Conti, just a few months earlier. He had shared glimpses of the renovation work behind the scenes. The rooms — both sumptuous and imbued with a tastefully refined aesthetic — promised an immersive experience in a setting of rare elegance.

Nightfall took us by surprise. After a few minutes on a dimly lit path, the imposing silhouette of Borgo rose majestically from the darkness — like an enchanting fortress. Discreet staff members awaited us at the gates, quietly guiding us into this exceptional estate. The valet parked our car and collected our belongings.

By night, we discovered the vast, tree-filled park where the singular architecture of Borgo dei Conti revealed itself. A scene straight out of Downton Abbey. Surrounded by centuries-old oaks and beeches, this heritage jewel offered us a timeless glimpse into the grandeur of its past.

The welcome was as gracious as the setting itself — warm, with a delicate attentiveness. The room was bathed in soft lighting, and the shadows cast on the history-laden walls revealed the patterns of the tapestries, like the silent breath of the place.

We sank into beautiful armchairs — plush yet firm. After the usual check-in formalities, our host led us to our room. A genuine smile lit up his face as he caught our immediate sense of wonder for the suite that had been prepared for us.

First moments out of time

Spacious, the suite unfolded across several living areas: a bedroom dominated by a large, plush bed; a comfortable lounge perfect for making the space your own and weaving unforgettable memories in Umbria; and a bathroom with contemporary design, blending refined textures and harmonious color combinations.

The interplay of light created a unique atmosphere, shaping the space while highlighting the textures, carefully selected designer furniture, and locally crafted pieces that showcased authentic craftsmanship. The sophisticated textures, merging historical references with Italian artisanal tradition, invited relaxation.

The exquisite pattern of the headboard (which I learned the next day comes from the Giuditta Brozzetti workshop) is, for me, the centerpiece of the décor. This signature detail gives the room a sacred dimension, an enchanting depth. You’ll find yourself gazing at this exclusive creation, trying to absorb its essence, to guess its texture, to study its structure.

After taking a few photos, we got ready to go to dinner. I had a strong feeling that our stay at Borgo would be memorable and would help me shift my perspective — to experience, in a way, a new approach to wellness.

A stay at Borgo dei Conti will leave a lasting impression. From the very first moments, you will be struck by the meticulous attention given to every detail, revealing a refined and discerning taste: the patinated copper key fob with its perfectly aligned tassel is an extension of this flawless experience. Each element evokes a subtle elegance, thoughtfully crafted and sprinkled with nods and references — sometimes historical, sometimes artistic.

Flavours of Umbria

For our first dinner, we had reserved a table at the Osteria. It was a wonderful, almost intimate experience. The staff were incredibly attentive and shared their recommendations with us. Throughout our first evening, we connected with the people who would accompany us during our stay.

Italian cuisine is one of our favorites, and after our journey, we were hungry and eager to discover the sensibility of Chef Emanuele Mazzella. The Michelin-starred “maestro” from Ischia has a philosophy that perfectly aligns with the identity of Borgo dei Conti. A passionate chef who celebrates the local terroir and its traditions, he approaches cooking as an art of transmission.

We chose two bold starters, combining finesse and a balanced harmony of flavors. For the main course, we enjoyed a generous plate of spaghetti, elevated by a burrata that was both firm and creamy, topped with a fresh tomato sauce full of character that beautifully evoked Italian traditions. Then, we savored a delicately prepared fish, accompanied by seasonal vegetables.

Chef Emanuele Mazzella is committed to working with local suppliers who prioritize ethical and sustainable production methods. On the plate, exceptional seasonal products that respect nature’s cycle.

In the dining room, a thick manuscript of Dante’s Divina Commedia — the supreme poet and iconic figure of Italy — stood as a silent yet eloquent presence. The evening ended with a moonlit stroll before we returned to our suite.

Sleep, a key pillar for your well-being

This stay at Borgo dei Conti was truly enchanting. But it will remain etched in my memory for a very special reason: I experienced the most restorative night’s sleep of my life. I had never slept so well. It may sound trivial, but quality sleep is essential to the harmony of body and mind.

We woke up early in the morning, gently rocked by the distant song of birds and the sun’s rays filtering through the thick curtains. I jumped out of bed and grabbed my notebook to quickly jot down my first impressions and a few thoughts. Beyond the remarkable aesthetics of the place, it’s important to highlight that the rooms at Borgo dei Conti are truly designed to offer an experience of complete rest — both calming and rejuvenating.

The bedding is of exceptional quality; the beds are wide and inviting, combining softness and firmness to gently cradle your body. The linen sheets, soft and noble, enhance this cocoon-like feeling—an enveloping blend of raw authenticity and timeless elegance. I remember feeling a certain joy at the thought of slipping into bed that very evening, eager to catch up on lost sleep—a gentle return to myself.

The absolute calm that reigns throughout the place creates the perfect atmosphere for deep, natural sleep. I experienced the rare sensation of sleeping in perfect harmony with my own biorhythm. However, the desire to savor the first joy of the day (a true passion for hotel breakfasts) urged me to quickly slip into the shower, ready to embrace the morning.

Breakfast splendor at Cedri

We made our way to the Cedri restaurant, a jewel within the jewel that is Borgo dei Conti. Cedri was once a winter garden. Borgo’s fine dining restaurant offers a culinary experience elevated by an architectural setting that evokes a cozy nest.

We were warmly welcomed by attentive staff dressed in linen outfits designed like uniforms, embodying understated elegance. The beauty of the fabrics and cuts was evident. Through the glass panels and white drapes, sunlight flourished, creating a soft and calming atmosphere. Everything felt so right — a perfect harmony of refinement, light, and greenery.

You compose your breakfast according to your desires, sweet or savory, while at the center of the room stands a generously laid table, filled with fresh fruits, artisanal jams, dried fruits, and the delicious Millefiori organic honey produced on the Borgo dei Conti property (you can even observe the beehives when visiting the wooded park).

Breakfast is my favorite meal. We savored delicately scented jasmine tea, scrambled eggs with tomato, fluffy pancakes, and a crunchy granola served with YOBEE, a creamy white sheep’s milk yogurt.

As I enjoyed my breakfast, I realized that Borgo dei Conti’s approach to wellness sets it apart from other exceptional establishments we represent. Here, it’s not about “wellness menus,” strict dieting, or counting calories. Wellness is seen as a return to the roots— reconnecting with the fundamentals: a serene environment shaped by nature, a soothing aesthetic, conscious, committed, and flavorful cuisine, and profoundly restorative sleep.

I was eager to discover more: to explore the outdoor spaces, to feel the harmony of the place… and to step through the doors of the Nescens spa.

Dive into the history of Borgo dei Conti

It was time to meet Angela, Borgo dei Conti’s Sales Director, for a tour of the estate. Attentive and passionate, Angela introduced us to the various spaces with generosity and a palpable attachment to Borgo dei Conti.

We began by exploring several types of rooms to feel the unique atmosphere of each space, but also to understand the differences between the suites, so we could better guide you towards the accommodation that would suit you best when you plan your own stay. Each type, and I would even go further, each individual room, has its own distinct characteristics.

Throughout the tour, Angela enriched our experience by sharing essential storytelling insights that capture the soul of Borgo: the textile workshops that selected the headboards and cushions, the terracotta patterns adorning the floors, the carefully chosen local materials, and the references and inspirations behind the color palettes, steeped in history, art, and harmony.

At the time of our stay, Borgo comprised 40 fully renovated accommodations: 30 suites and 10 rooms spread between the historic villa and the Colonica (located near the estate). We followed her through this architectural maze as if embarking on a journey through history, immersing ourselves in the timeless richness of Umbrian heritage.

Borgo is especially well suited for family stays—each accommodation can be combined with another, offering great flexibility to adapt to your group’s composition while preserving privacy and exclusivity.

We had the privilege of visiting some of the most iconic suites, particularly the sumptuous Conti Suite. I’ve included a few photos below to begin the journey. Unless you’d rather keep the surprise intact until your next visit?

Reconnecting with your roots

To venture off the beaten path, Angela took us to explore the nature at the heart of the estate: first the wooded park, then the beehives nestled below, the outdoor sports areas, and a fascinating space that embodies reflections on future developments for Borgo. The immersion in nature is complete—once you pass through the imposing main gate, between forest and stream, follow the winding path up to the main building.

The lush park surrounding Borgo is a wonderful playground, perfectly suited to a fresh approach to wellness. You won’t find an indoor gym at Borgo — a deliberate choice when you can wander freely in this verdant sanctuary. Borgo offers the ideal setting to reconnect with nature, participate in outdoor coaching sessions, or try activities that celebrate the richness of Umbria.

You can play golf, join a truffle hunt, visit farms, agritourism sites, and olive groves, explore vineyards and book tastings, immerse yourself in local craftsmanship, and discover the museums, galleries, and workshops that shape Umbria’s cultural heritage.

After exploring the estate and listening to the flowers bloom, we enjoyed the outdoor swimming pool.

It offers stunning views over the estate, olive trees, and centuries-old trees. Sheltered by sheer curtains, lounging on your daybed, time seems to stand still. Then we made our way to the Nescens spa to discover the treatment menu and the spaces that make up the wellness journey.

Wellness in its purest form at Nescens Spa

The Borgo dei Conti spa is tucked away behind a heavy door in the west wing of the property. A well-kept secret, it serves as a true sensory invitation to immersion and letting go. The therapists welcomed us with personalized care. I was delighted to rediscover the Nescens cosmeceutical range, which combine holistic approaches with targeted treatments. Nescens is the expert in anti-aging.

I must admit, I hadn’t expected such a spacious spa, designed as a world apart—a little bubble of wellness away from the world where you are sure to lose all sense of time. Spread over two levels and covering 650 square meters, the Nescens spa unfolds gracefully. After touring the facilities, we slipped into our soft robes to begin our wellness retreat.

The soft, intimate atmosphere signals to the body that it can relax. On the ground floor, your journey begins in a wet area featuring a jacuzzi, sensory showers, a traditional Finnish sauna, and a stunning bio-sauna bathed in natural light with views of the surrounding nature. A treatment area with private cabins welcomes you for individual or duo sensory rituals.

We lingered in the salt room to experience the therapeutic benefits of halotherapy, moving from one area to another to awaken our senses. To enhance immersive relaxation, you can access a sensory deprivation space where silence and soft lighting prevail.

Just before sunset, we headed upstairs. The Borgo dei Conti spa offers complementary, flexible experiences—both indoors, to fully immerse yourself in this cozy cocoon, and outdoors, to enjoy the harmonious surroundings and reconnect with nature, moving at your own pace to the rhythm of its sounds. The centerpiece of the outdoor relaxation area is a heated pool with jets, surrounded by loungers for moments of personal bliss in the heart of the olive grove.

We admired the spectacle of nature, the beauty of the fiery sunset, then returned to our room to get ready for our final dinner in this peaceful haven.

Like the night before, the dishes were refined, delicious, and colorful, but the atmosphere was quite different. We had decided to dine earlier to make the evening last longer, and as we settled in, we were warmly welcomed by the restaurant staff. Almost all the other tables were occupied. A palpable buzz filled the air, as if the other guests were equally happy to be there.

A final stroll under the stars, with the promise to return to Umbria for a longer stay to discover almost all of its treasures. Then we retreated to the privacy of our suite for one last restful night before setting off to explore Rome.

Verdict: our stay at Borgo dei Conti was brief but deeply impactful. I experienced it as a rejuvenating, restful, and truly fulfilling return to the essentials. It allowed me to shift my perspective and view wellness from a different angle—less rigid, more intimate, gentle, self-aware, and genuinely nurturing. For me, Borgo dei Conti embodies the very essence of slow luxury: rarity, preciousness, heritage, beauty, and authenticity. I was deeply moved by the soul of this haven and by the people who bring it to life.

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